Chain for Ground-Level Crank Tarp Systems | 10' #40 with Master Link

The roller chain drives the rotation of the tarp axle on a manual tarp system. The high-strength plated carbon steel chain extends from the sprocket extending from the tarp axle down to the manual crank box. An included master link allows for length adjustments.

Manual Tarp System Chain Specifications:

• Class: ANSI #40
• Pitch: 0.5 inches (12.70 mm)
• Roller Diameter 0.312 inches (7.92 mm)
• Width Between Inner Plates: 0.312 inches (7.92 mm)
• Pin Diameter: 0.156 inches (3.96 mm)
• Pin Length: 0.585 inches (14.86 mm)
• Inner Plate Depth: 0.475 inches (12.07 mm)
• Plate Thickness: 0.060 inches (1.52 mm)
• Weight per Foot: Approximately 0.475 lbs/foot

Adjusting the Length of a Roller Chain

Roller chains are held together by pins which connect the inner links to the outer links. To reduce the length, you must separate an inner and outer link by removing the connecting pin. A master link allows you to then rejoin the ends of the chain. The master link is an outer link, and can only rejoin to an inner link, so bear that in mind when choosing which pin to remove. The connecting pins are slightly mushroomed, riveted, or peened on the ends to prevent them from sliding out of the links, which makes removing them quite difficult. There are a few methods you can use when breaking and rejoining your chain.

• Chain Breaker Tool: If you are installing multiple manual dump truck tarp systems, you may want to invest in a Chain Breaker Tool, which you can find online or at your local hardware store. It will come with instructions and makes it very easy and straightforward to remove the roller pins.
• Nail Punch: A nail punch toll can be used to focus high impact blows to the small head of the pin. The pin must be hammered such that the mushroomed end of the pin contracts as it squeezes through the hole in the link. It is easiest when held by a vice, but you can also use nut or socket to support the chain while also creating a cavity beneath it for the pin to exit into. The nail punch will get you started, but pushing it all the way through will require an additional strong, narrow device to push the pin all the way through, as the nail punch will likely become too wide to reach through the link hole. A nail will likely bend. A hardened steel tool like a screw driver or T-handled allen wrench would be most effective.
• Grinding Wheel: If you do not have a Chain Breaker Tool, then this is the easiest method. Use a grinding wheel to grind off the mushroomed end of the pin. Damaging the outer plate of the link is of no concern, as you will no longer need that link. Once the pin end has been ground smooth with the plate, use a tool similar to one mentioned above to push the pin the rest of the way through. It may still require forceful impacts to extract it from the link, but not nearly as much as if you were trying to drive the mushroomed end of the pin through the link plates.

Rejoining Your Chain with the Master Link: Once you have removed the pin and outer link at the desired location, the master link can then be used to rejoin to inner links. Insert the pins of the master link through the open holes of the inner links at either end of the chain segment. Place the master link outer plate over the protruding pins, and then apply the locking clip over the master link pin ends, which have a shallow groove notched into the ends to allow for the clip to snap into place. If the chain length needs to be reduced any further, repeat the above instructions. If it needs to be lengthened, then you will need another master link to join two segments of chain.

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